Here is another version of the MaryJane's I did recently. On the first one, I omitted the strap, and I did not do a contrast color around the sole. On the other I used the contrast color on the toe only. It turns out I love this one the most!
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Slippers
Here is another version of the MaryJane's I did recently. On the first one, I omitted the strap, and I did not do a contrast color around the sole. On the other I used the contrast color on the toe only. It turns out I love this one the most!
Loafers
I have made these as a gift for a newborn. I think they could go either to a boy or a girl. I adjust the pattern slightly, but I still think these may not fit for a few months as they are a little big. The length is good but they are quite wide for a newborn.
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Slouchy Beanie Hat
I slightly altered the original pattern. I use Lily Sugar 'N Cream, in Sage Green. It is a 4-ply, with an I-hook. I added two rows from the original pattern on row 5-16 ( the original called for 5-14). I worked in the round. It took me about three hours to complete, and I used a little over one skein.
Chain 2
Round 1: Chain 3 (this counts as 1st dc). Make 11 dcs in 2nd chain from hook (to finish with 12 stitches).
Round 2: do 2 dcs in every stitch (24 stitches).
Round 3: do 2 dcs in every stitch (48 stitches). (These are drastic increases to encourage the ‘gathered’ effect.)
Round 4: Increase 1 stitch in every other stitch. (e.g. 2 dcs in 1st stitch; 1 dc in 2nd; 2dcs in 3rd; 1 in 4th and so on) (72).
Rounds 5-16: do 1 dc in every stitch (72). Keep checking against your head size and stop if you think it’s getting too long, or carry on more rounds if you prefer the hat to be longer!
Round 15: Decrease after every 6th stitch (i.e. do 7th & 8th stitches together) (64).
Round 16: Decrease after every 5 stitches (i.e. do 6th & 7th stitches tog) (56).
Round 17: 1 dc in every stitch (56).
Round 18: Use Single Crochet. Decrease after every 10th stitch (11th & 12th tog) (52).
Round 19: SC 52 stitches all round. Join & cut. Weave in ends.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Zoe MaryJane's
I used Caron Simply Soft, in white, and I used Caron Simply Soft, in bone for the sole trim. Any 4-ply would work.
round 1: chain 2, foundation 8 hdc stitches, 4hdc in the last stitch created, 1 hdc in each stitch across for 6 stitches. 4 hdc in last stitch. join beginning stitch (22hdc)
round 2: chain 1. 2 hdc, 1hdc in next six stitches, 2hdc, 1hdc, 2hdc, 1hdc, 2hdc, 1hdc in next six stitches, 2hdc, 1hdc, 2hdc, 1hdc, join with first hdc. (28 hdc)
round 3: 1hdc in each stitch, working in back stitch, join (28hdc)
round 4: 1hdc in each stitch, join (28 hdc)
Finish off. Weave in ends.
Toe: Find the middle-front, count back 6 stitches and attach yarn with slip-stitch, ch 2, working the 12 front stitches yo and insert in each 12 stitches (you will have 12 loops on hook), yo and pull through all loops on hook. Tie off. Leave extra tail to secure more than usual.
Strap: Count 3 from toe, attach with slip-stitch, foundation 6 hdc, chain 4 for button loop, attach to last hdc. Tie off.
Weave in ends. Attach button.
I slip-stitched a second color around the sole.
I haven’t attached the buttons yet. I need to find the right button!
I found this on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKVpKx5qMAg
It’s a great video, but I modified it to my liking so it was less like a boot and more like a slipper.
Saturday, April 10, 2010
MaryJane's
These were SO much FUN! I can't wait to make more! Only took about two hours per shoe.
Foundation chain: using 5 mm hook, chain 6.
Round 1: dc into second chain from hook, dc into next 3 chains, 3 dc into last chain, then continue double-crocheting up the other side of chain as follows: dc into next three chains, 2dc in last chain (12 stitches).
Round 2: dc into each of next 5 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 5 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch (16 stitches)
Round 3: dc into each of next 6 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 7 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into next stitch (20 stitches)
Round 4: dc into each of next 7 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 9 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into next 2 stitches (24 stitches)
Round 5: dc into each stitch (24 stitches)
Round 6: dc into each stitch (24 stitches)
Sole
The sole continues on from the toe-cap, and is worked in rows as follows:
Row 1: dc into first 8 stitches of round 6. Mark first and last stitch in the row, and also the two stitches of the toe-cap on either side of the row. 1 chain. Turn. (8 stitches)
Row 2: dc into each stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (8 stitches)
Rows 3 – 13: as row 2.
Row 14: 2 dc into first stitch, dc into next 6 stitches, 2 dc into last stitch. (10 stitches). 1 chain. Turn.
Row 15: dc into each stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (10 stitches)
Rows 16 – 19: as row 15.
Row 20: 2 dc into first stitch, dc into next 8 stitches, 2 dc into last stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (12 stitches)
Row 21: dc into each stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (12 stitches).
Rows 22-23: as row 21.
Row 24: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 4 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain. Turn. (10 stitches)
Row 25: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain. Turn. (8 stitches)
Row 26: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog. dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain. Turn. (6 stitches)
Row 27: dc into first stitch. dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into last stitch. (4 stitches). DO NOT TURN. With contrasting thread mark first and last stitches in rows 26 and 27.
Upper
You will now work the rest of the slipper in rounds.
Round 1: with bottom of sole facing you, dc into each row end (26 stitches) dc into each stitch on toe-cap (17 stitches) dc up the row ends on the other side (26 stitches) and dc into the 4 stitches on the back. (73 stitches). Move the markers as you crochet so that the ends of the each side, toe-cap and back are marked.
Round 2: repeat round 1
In rounds 3 – 6 you will decrease at both ends of each side, and at each side of the toe-cap by double-crocheting together the first two and last two stitches of both sides and the toe-cap as follows:
Round 3: dc2tog, dc into next 22 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 13 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 22 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (67 stitches)
Round 4: dc2tog, dc into next 20 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 11 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 20 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (61 stitches)
Round 5: dc2tog, dc into next 18 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 9 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 18 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (55 stitches)
Round 6: dc2tog, dc into next 16 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 7 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 16 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 3 stitches, and slip stitch into last stitch. Cut yarn leaving a loose end to weave in. (49 stitches)
The final two rounds are worked in a contrasting yarn. First of all you make a chain and button hole for the strap, and then you join the yarn to the slippers and continue shaping the upper as follows:
Strap: With colour for trim, chain 5. Slip stitch into chain furthest from hook to form a loop (this will be the buttonhole: if your buttons have a diameter greater than 1.5 cm, then you may need to increase the size of this loop). Then chain 16.
Left slipper
Round 7: Join chain to left slipper on the right side in the 8th stitch from the front right corner (see picture 5 ). You will then continue crocheting around the upper, decreasing at the corners and heel as in rounds 3 – 6 as follows: dc into next 7 stitches, dc2tog, dc into 4 stitches along back of slipper, dc2tog, dc into next 14 stitches, dc2tog, , dc2tog, dc into next 5 stitches (across toe-cap) dc2tog, dc into next 7 stitches (the last dc goes into the same stitch that you joined the chain to the slipper). Then dc up one side of the chain you made (16 stitches), dc into each chain in the loop (5 stitches), and dc back down the other side of the chain (16 stitches).
Right slipper
Round 7: Join chain to right slipper on the left side in the 8th stitch from the front left corner. You will then continue crocheting around the upper, decreasing at the corners and heel as in rounds 3 – 6 as follows: dc into next 6 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next five stitches (across toe-cap), dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 14 stitches, dc2tog, dc into 4 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 8 stitches (the last dc goes into the same stitch that you joined the chain to the slipper). Then dc up one side of the chain you made (16 stitches), dc into each chain in the loop (6 stitches), and dc back down the other side of the chain (16 stitches).
Both slippers
Round 8: dc into each dc along top of slipper until you come back to the strap, then cast off.
To finish: Weave in ends, and sew on buttons.
The link to original pattern is listed.
Foundation chain: using 5 mm hook, chain 6.
Round 1: dc into second chain from hook, dc into next 3 chains, 3 dc into last chain, then continue double-crocheting up the other side of chain as follows: dc into next three chains, 2dc in last chain (12 stitches).
Round 2: dc into each of next 5 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 5 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch (16 stitches)
Round 3: dc into each of next 6 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 7 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into next stitch (20 stitches)
Round 4: dc into each of next 7 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into each of next 9 stitches, 3 dc into next stitch, dc into next 2 stitches (24 stitches)
Round 5: dc into each stitch (24 stitches)
Round 6: dc into each stitch (24 stitches)
Sole
The sole continues on from the toe-cap, and is worked in rows as follows:
Row 1: dc into first 8 stitches of round 6. Mark first and last stitch in the row, and also the two stitches of the toe-cap on either side of the row. 1 chain. Turn. (8 stitches)
Row 2: dc into each stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (8 stitches)
Rows 3 – 13: as row 2.
Row 14: 2 dc into first stitch, dc into next 6 stitches, 2 dc into last stitch. (10 stitches). 1 chain. Turn.
Row 15: dc into each stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (10 stitches)
Rows 16 – 19: as row 15.
Row 20: 2 dc into first stitch, dc into next 8 stitches, 2 dc into last stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (12 stitches)
Row 21: dc into each stitch. 1 chain. Turn. (12 stitches).
Rows 22-23: as row 21.
Row 24: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 4 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain. Turn. (10 stitches)
Row 25: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 2 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain. Turn. (8 stitches)
Row 26: dc into first 2 stitches, dc2tog. dc2tog, dc into last 2 stitches. 1 chain. Turn. (6 stitches)
Row 27: dc into first stitch. dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into last stitch. (4 stitches). DO NOT TURN. With contrasting thread mark first and last stitches in rows 26 and 27.
Upper
You will now work the rest of the slipper in rounds.
Round 1: with bottom of sole facing you, dc into each row end (26 stitches) dc into each stitch on toe-cap (17 stitches) dc up the row ends on the other side (26 stitches) and dc into the 4 stitches on the back. (73 stitches). Move the markers as you crochet so that the ends of the each side, toe-cap and back are marked.
Round 2: repeat round 1
In rounds 3 – 6 you will decrease at both ends of each side, and at each side of the toe-cap by double-crocheting together the first two and last two stitches of both sides and the toe-cap as follows:
Round 3: dc2tog, dc into next 22 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 13 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 22 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (67 stitches)
Round 4: dc2tog, dc into next 20 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 11 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 20 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (61 stitches)
Round 5: dc2tog, dc into next 18 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 9 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 18 stitches, dc2 tog, dc into last 4 stitches (55 stitches)
Round 6: dc2tog, dc into next 16 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 7 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 16 stitches, dc2tog, dc into last 3 stitches, and slip stitch into last stitch. Cut yarn leaving a loose end to weave in. (49 stitches)
The final two rounds are worked in a contrasting yarn. First of all you make a chain and button hole for the strap, and then you join the yarn to the slippers and continue shaping the upper as follows:
Strap: With colour for trim, chain 5. Slip stitch into chain furthest from hook to form a loop (this will be the buttonhole: if your buttons have a diameter greater than 1.5 cm, then you may need to increase the size of this loop). Then chain 16.
Left slipper
Round 7: Join chain to left slipper on the right side in the 8th stitch from the front right corner (see picture 5 ). You will then continue crocheting around the upper, decreasing at the corners and heel as in rounds 3 – 6 as follows: dc into next 7 stitches, dc2tog, dc into 4 stitches along back of slipper, dc2tog, dc into next 14 stitches, dc2tog, , dc2tog, dc into next 5 stitches (across toe-cap) dc2tog, dc into next 7 stitches (the last dc goes into the same stitch that you joined the chain to the slipper). Then dc up one side of the chain you made (16 stitches), dc into each chain in the loop (5 stitches), and dc back down the other side of the chain (16 stitches).
Right slipper
Round 7: Join chain to right slipper on the left side in the 8th stitch from the front left corner. You will then continue crocheting around the upper, decreasing at the corners and heel as in rounds 3 – 6 as follows: dc into next 6 stitches, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next five stitches (across toe-cap), dc2tog, dc2tog, dc into next 14 stitches, dc2tog, dc into 4 stitches, dc2tog, dc into next 8 stitches (the last dc goes into the same stitch that you joined the chain to the slipper). Then dc up one side of the chain you made (16 stitches), dc into each chain in the loop (6 stitches), and dc back down the other side of the chain (16 stitches).
Both slippers
Round 8: dc into each dc along top of slipper until you come back to the strap, then cast off.
To finish: Weave in ends, and sew on buttons.
The link to original pattern is listed.
Friday, April 9, 2010
Sophia dress
This was a super easy, three day project for me. I used a silk instead of a cotton so I think its weighted down a bit more than it should be. The plan is to try it out in a cotton someday, but I have too many other projects I would like to tackle so it probably won't happen anytime soon!I tried to tell Sophie that I think her dress is just a little too big (because the straps were having a hard time staying on her tiny shoulders), she kept saying "no its not!" She LOVES it!
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crochet-baby-dress
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Sophie Bag
This was a super easy bag to make. I thought it would come out bigger than this, but it has turned out cute none-the-less.
Bag statistics: approximatey - 4" tall; 13" around. Gauge: not important to this project.
SUPPLIES:
H hook;
Yarn: 57 yds, app 1 oz, 4 ply, worsted weight. This one is done in Red Heart Super Saver, color 0885 Delft Blue
scissors; blunt needle; stitch marker
STITCHES USED: chain, single crochet, slip stitch
ABBREVIATIONS: ch - chain; sc - single crochet; ea - each; st(s) - stitch(es)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Pattern is worked in a spiral, do not join rounds. Place stitch marker in first st of each round and move it up from round to round.
ROUND 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sc)
ROUND 2: 2 sc in ea st around. (12 sc)
ROUND 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sc)
ROUND 4: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sc)
ROUND 5: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sc)
ROUND 6: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sc)
ROUND 7: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sc)
ROUND 8: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sc)
ROUND 9 thru 22: 1 sc in ea st around.
ROUND 23: ch 30, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 22 sts, ch 4, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 22 sts.
ROUND 24: sc in next 30 chs, sc in next 22 sts, sc in next 4 chs, sc in next 22 sts.
ROUND 25: sl st in ea st around.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Bag statistics: approximatey - 4" tall; 13" around. Gauge: not important to this project.
SUPPLIES:
H hook;
Yarn: 57 yds, app 1 oz, 4 ply, worsted weight. This one is done in Red Heart Super Saver, color 0885 Delft Blue
scissors; blunt needle; stitch marker
STITCHES USED: chain, single crochet, slip stitch
ABBREVIATIONS: ch - chain; sc - single crochet; ea - each; st(s) - stitch(es)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Pattern is worked in a spiral, do not join rounds. Place stitch marker in first st of each round and move it up from round to round.
ROUND 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sc)
ROUND 2: 2 sc in ea st around. (12 sc)
ROUND 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sc)
ROUND 4: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sc)
ROUND 5: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sc)
ROUND 6: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sc)
ROUND 7: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sc)
ROUND 8: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sc)
ROUND 9 thru 22: 1 sc in ea st around.
ROUND 23: ch 30, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 22 sts, ch 4, sk next 2 sts, sc in next 22 sts.
ROUND 24: sc in next 30 chs, sc in next 22 sts, sc in next 4 chs, sc in next 22 sts.
ROUND 25: sl st in ea st around.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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